Incubating
Quail Eggs
Incubating Coturnix
Quail is great fun and is essential if you want to keep
your flock going, as a result of captive breeding over
many years, Quail tend not to incubate their own eggs so
to increase their numbers or to replace old or table
birds we must do it ourselves, a purpose built egg
incubator is the most reliable but there are lots of
stories around about broody bantams successfully
hatching and
rearing clutches of tiny quail, we have
never tried it but maybe one day.....
Here's how we do it, hopefully
you may find some of it useful. |
|
 |
|
|
|
Firstly if you are buying your eggs from someone who is posting
them, to get the best results ensure that you let them settle at
room temperature for at least 24hrs, maybe even longer depending
on the trip they may have had, store them close to your
incubator, point end down, tilt the box to one side, and if
possible, swap the tilt at least three times during the 24 hrs
to ensure that everything is free and nothing sticks to the
sides inside the egg.
If
you want any chance of achieving a good hatch, advance preparation is essential,
ensure that your incubator has
been thoroughly sterilised and
running at approx 37.5c for at least 24 hrs before you need to introduce
the eggs.
Once
the eggs are in, maintain this temperature and a relative
humidity of at least 45%, this bit we have never really measured
accurately but we do fill the water containers up and then just
leave them, more importantly in the early stages, is the turning
cycle, if you don't have an incubator that does this automatically,
turning the eggs at least 3 times a day is essential so that the
developing chick moves around and doesn't get chance to stick to
the inside of the the shell.
At day 15 you can stop turning the eggs, as now the chicks will
be busy moving around on their own and starting to look for a
way out, and they don't need you turning them over when they are
just settled in to the right position for hatching, now's the
time to make a slight adjustment to the temperature, this needs to be
reduced to around 37.0c to take into account the heat now being
generated by the chicks inside the shell, also we now increase the
humidity to around 75-80% to ensure that the membrane does not dry
out during hatching, again we have never really measured this accurately
but we fill the bottom of the incubator, the eggs are on a
raised tray in ours so this is easy for us.
Soon,
all things being well, you should start to hear them cheeping
inside the egg and if you watch closely some of the eggs will
suddenly move where they are making their way round the inside
of the shell, once out the
chicks will be fine for around 24hrs inside the incubator after
which they should be removed to the brooder, it's really
important that the brooder has adequate heating and that it has
been running a while in preparation for the chicks arrival.
We prefer to use red heat bulbs, as these not only provide good warmth
but the light they produce isn't to bright for the young chicks,
these are hung on cord or chains so that they can be moved up as
the chicks develop and need less heat.
There
is a mountain of information available out there, (all will say
something different) we don't make any claim to knowing any
better but this has worked for us over the years and like
everything, as time goes on you refine the method and learn from
your mistakes (of which we have had a few) but that's what makes
this past time such a pleasure !
If
you have any problems or just need to ask a question please do
not hesitate to contact us.
|